Cold water in that area has a dampening effect. Local Interest See it Here N wind 15 to 20 kt. Still plenty of swell out there though. Chance Central Orange County had sets at chest high on the peak and lined up with decent form and soft but clean. Southeast winds around 10 mph shifting to the northeast in the afternoon. Easing swells this week. You can customize the wave and wind maps with overlays for wind arrows, pressure and general weather for surfing. Swell holding Sat (5/6) at 2.2 ft @ 16 secs (3.5 ft). of more interest is swell pushing east originating from a broad system that developed just off the Kuril Islands Mon-Tues (2/22) producing 39 ft seas aimed east then dissipating before reaching the dateline. During the Inactive Phase the jet stream tends to split resulting in high pressure and less potential for swell producing storm development. Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs. You can customize the wave and wind maps with overlays for wind arrows, pressure and general weather for surfing. If these combine with south swells then Malibu and Trestles will fire whereas places such as Rincon require a more northerly swell. This day is looking like the lightest afternoon all week, so another session later in the day isnt a bad call. Weather models are quite diverged with the local winds, but right now the morning is looking the lightest, with a stronger west wind expected for the afternoon. NW wind 10 to 20 kt. TODAY Previous - Temps rose in early Nov 2020 after bottoming out at -1.25 degs, up to -0.01 degs in mid-June 2021 then fading to -1.05 degs in mid-Nov then rebuilding to -0.7 in mid Feb 2022 then fading to -1.1 degs in May before starting an upward climb peaking in mid-June at -0.65 degs and mid July at -0.55 degs. The Bureau of Meteorology operates a 7-day Global wave model called Auswave. The GODAS animation appears to be 1 week behind the TAO data but also is more detailed and accurately modeled. First though I wanted to note that there is a chance of seeing NW wind swell in the mix Wednesday the 10th and Thursday the 11th from a rare, split-jetstream pattern that'd put a windy leg of the jetstream along the SoCal coast (model by FNMOC): This jet-split pattern can happen when the jetstream rams into a large area of high pressure, which in this case would encompass most of the continental U.S. And an El Nino tongue of more intense warming is building on the equator west to 138W and from there to the dateline and beyond. Swell holding Sun (5/7) at 2.1 ft @ 15 secs (3.0 ft). There are also options to display live wind observations from ships, wave buoys and weather stations on . : See Hi-Res Buoy Dashboards (bottom of the page). Fetch was fading in the evening from 35-40 kts from the south with seas 34 ft at 55S 145.5W aimed northeast. Prior to that temps had been in a freefall starting from the -0.175 range in early Sept. Before that temps peaked up at 7/1 +0.332, the highest in a year. Wind At a glance: SUN NIGHT SW wind 5 to 15 kt. Chance of showers. Southern California is for good reason surfing's second home after Hawaii and the base of much of the industry. In May-July 2021 it was the most negative its been in the -1.80 to -2.04 range since Sept 2012 (-2.99) and then fell to -3.16 in Oct 2021 (the lowest since July 1933) then settled at -2.72 in Nov and Dec 2021. This is dragging colder air along with it, but upper atmospheric temps (850 hPa, a mile up) should be well above the freezing mark, so surface temps will not dive too low, and nightly cloud cover should provide enough blanket to keep low temps in the 50s at the coast. CFSV2 Forecast for Nino3.4 Sea Surface Temp (SST) Anomalies & Current SST Anomalies. The pattern of adding energy to the warm surface pool has restarted. TAO Array: (4/30) Today in the far West Pacific the 29 degree isotherm was steady if not backtracking slightly from 180W (previously 170E) to 177E. W swell 11 ft at 13 seconds. Surf Heights for Hawaii should be consider 'Hawaiian Scale' if period exceeds 14 secs. And another gale developed off the Pacific Northwest Sat-Sun (4/30) with 28 ft seas aimed east. W wind 10 ktbacking to SW. Wind waves 3 ft. But a quick fade is forecast as we move into late December 2022 with the CFS predicting a return to a neutral wind anomaly pattern and the low pressure bias making headway in to the KWGA in early Jan. By April 2020 a cool pool was starting to build, forming a well defined cool tongue that evolved into La Nina, with it fully developing through July 2020. But by later in Feb 2022 perhaps a return to a more normal pattern might take hold. SW wind 10 kt. All Rights Reserved. Anomaly wise, warm anomalies +2 deg C were steady filling the entire subsurface equatorial Pacific. Steve Shearer (freeride76) Wednesday, 26 April 2023. Ocean Prediction Center - Atlantic Marine The morning is looking fairly light with just a touch of south wind, followed by a light onshore wind in the afternoon. Swell holding Sun (5/7) at 2.2 ft @ 15 secs (3.0-3.5 ft) early. Alternatively, visit our basic swell maps of Global-Pacific where each view becomes a separate image. There should still be a little bit of NW windswell too, how much still depends on the trajectory of the trough to the west. The south swell will slowly ease Sunday the 8th and into the workweek. SHORT- TERM FORECAST Hourly Multiple Swells Wind Highlighting Model. National Weather Service Medford, OR But we also have some very late season WNW groundswell mixing in during the same timeframe, and wintertime spots could get pretty fun. Rain. PZZ300-290400. DeepSwell offers free surf reports and long-range forecasts including swell, tide, wind and weather reports updated multiple times daily. Friday the 6th as a combo of both Southern Hemi and WNW groundswell build to a peak. Thermal inversion will be absent thanks to the incoming cold air, but the onshore flow and moisture being drawn into SoCal will keep May Gray in place. Specifically, strong El Nino events promote storm production in the Pacific while La Nina events suppress storm production. Swell DIrection: 306-309 degrees, North CA: Expect swell arrival on Sat (2/26) building to 3.4 ft @ 20 secs late (7.0 ft). Swell from it is poised for Hawaii. West facing breaks were mostly waist high. TONIGHT Gulf Gale SHORT- TERM FORECAST Temps bottomed out at -1.654 on 11/3/2020. Waters from Cape Blanco OR to Pt. THU